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user's guide
Regularly
check the areas close to the chimney - ceiling, roof trusses etc - for
colouration or other heat damage. Check after the 1st fire and
thereafter at least once a season.
Things to check before your 1st fire
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Clean the the pipe
thoroughly with an alchohol based solvent (eg Methelated Sprits,
Benzine). Any fingerprints left by the installers will burn into the
surface unless cleaned thoroughly.
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The inner pipe of
the double insulated Endcap flu MUST be pulled down by at least 60mm
up to a maximum of 300mm. The raised ring machined into the inner
pipe must not be snug up against the shiny endcap moulding.
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Dust the pot and wipe clean with
a damp cloth - no detergent.
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Unscrew the ceiling plate and
check for adequate insulation around the pipe where it goes through.
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Make sure that the pipe fits
snugly into the cast iron flue ring up to the raised bulge in the
pipe. Also check that no fire cement has been used here - the
fibreglass rope is all that is required.
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Has the fire cement been applied
only on the inside of the pot at the pot/lid join? (must dry for 12
hours)
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Dry sand in the bottom of the pot
up to just below the mouth. Vermiculite (available from nurseries)
can also be used.
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If possible, check the water seal
on the roof. Water with a hose and make sure no water is running
down the outside OR the inside of the chimney. Alternatively, check
after or during a rain storm.
Best way to light a fire
Always use seasoned, dry wood or charcoal to make a
fire. Coal or Anthracite is not suitable as it needs a secondary airflow
for complete combustion. However, you can place a lump or two into a hot
wood fire to prolong the heat output.
The most efficient way to use your Earthfire, is to
build a large fire initially. Once the pot is hot - this takes about
25min - the heat is stored in the clay body and is radiated out slowly.
Much like a hot rock - you will only need to add 3 or 4 logs to the fire
every 45min to an hour. It does not smell after a fire or smoke into the
room, like many open fireplace do, because the ratio between the size of
the mouth and the size of the chimney is optimized for a strong draw.
The wood is burnt to a very fine ash that does not smell or take up a
lot of space
Place 2
pieces of wood a bit apart touching the back wall and pointing to
the mouth.
Put 3 pieces on top at a 90
degree angle and another 3 on top at 90 degrees
Put a firelighter on the sand
just in front of the wood and light.
Be careful when using newspaper as a fire-starter -
it could get sucked up and lodge in the chimney. If you have an inline
damper in the chimney pipe, make sure it is set in the "open" position
before starting a fire.
IMPORTANT: Never throw logs into the firepot.
The clay is mechanically strong, but repeated impacts can cause damage
to the back wall.
Care, maintenance and safety
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Your fireplace will only need
cleaning every 25 to 30 fires. When the ash deposit gets too high,
simply brush out the excess down to the original level.
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IMPORTANT:
Break up the hard crust that forms on top of the sand at least once
a month.
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If you get fingermarks on your
Stainless Steel chimney, wipe down with a solvent (see above) and
polish with a clean, cloth.
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Regularly dust the pot and wipe
down with a damp rag if necessary. Foreign particles like dust may
cause an acrid smell when hot. Never use detergent.
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Never make
a fire in a wet pot or a pot with wet sand.
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If water has leaked down either
the inside or outside of the chimney, have it fixed immediately.
Take out all the sand and dry the pot by leaving a light bulb or
small halogen or incandescant lamp inside it over night. Replace dry
sand and make a small, slow fire for the 1st hour of use.
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Should a small chip occur in the glaze, rub a little shoe polish of
the closest colour match into the white clay when the firplace is
cooling after a fire.
It is good practise to
check any fireplace installation at least once a season - inspect
the ceiling and roof timbers in the vicinity of the pipe. Also
make sure no water is entering at the rain seal. If necessary, have
the chimney swept. Excessive soot build-up inside the chimney can
restrict the airflow and cause poor draw.
Troubleshooting
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Pipe pulls
out of the lid when cooling: If
this movement is not excessive, simply pull the pipe down before
making a fire. If movement exceeds 20mm it means that the pipe is
too tight in the roof - it expands when hot and when it cools there
is less resistance on the lid side, so the pipe pulls up. Get the
installer to rectify.
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s
Acrid smell:
Dust the pot and wipe thoroughly with a damp
rag. (The painted flue ring may smell initially). The inside of the
fireplace should be relatively soot free - if a layer of soot is
visible on the inside of the lid surface, brush it off and make a
hot fire using dry, seasoned wood. Green or very dense woods (like
Namibian thornwood) are more prone to this.
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Smokes while starting a fire:
Check the sand level. Build the fire against
the back wall of the pot and place the firelighter on the sand in
front of the wood/charcoal.
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Smokes all the time
There is a restriction in the chimney or cowl.
The chimney must never be smaller than 125mmID anywhere along its
length. If you have a damper installed in the chimney, ensure that
it is in the open position when starting a fire. The insulation
material in the insulated pipe may creep upwards over time if not
secured - check that the cowl is not obstructed. When securing the
insulation material, take care not to fasten the inner pipe as well
- it must be free to slide.
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Smoke or ash blows back
in strong wind: The outside chimney
length may be too short - swirls and eddies off the roof structure,
neighboring trees or buildings interferes with draw. In some cases
this can be caused by down drafts from mountains. Lengthen the
chimney or install an extractor. If ash only blows out when the
fireplace is not in use, fitting an inline damper in the chimney and
closing it (effectively blocking off the chimney) when not using the
fireplace will remedy the problem. Remember to open the damper when
starting a fire.
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